Thank you very much Nic!
http://www.evga.com/forums/fb.ashx?m=956537

Another way to manage the cable behind the tray and cages, besides cable ties and mounts, is to use Velcro tape. You take the stiff side tape and liberally put it on the tray and cages horizontally or diagonally, then let it set for a day. You put the soft side of the tape on the cables, wrapping it around in a spiral, and letting it set for the day. When they’ve set you can easily experiment with managing the cables and be able to move them without trouble. You may still want to use mounts and ties for the heavier cables (like the 24 pin), but the Velcro will do a good job on most.

Be mindful of kinks in the cables when bending and routing them. When tying down or together, just pull till together, exert no pressure as this damage the copper strands or even worse, if the case is opened and closed and the cables move much it could rub a spot to short in them. Also, trim up your cable ties, not only are they unsightly but they can also catch when the back panel is set or get caught in fans or even press against hot components and melt.

Remember always, functionality over appearance, while you want to make things look as good as possible you don’t want to impede performance or damage your system in the process of making it look neat.

Fist of I would suggest to get rid of the cables that stick out of the DVD drives. Either by putting them in vertically (easy) or by cutting them at a place where you can’t see them and smoldering them together again at the right length (more difficult but “cleaner” solution).
Next I would put the cables that go to the DVD–drive behind the drive bays and along the top edge and not across the case to the motherboard tray.
Also, the cable of the rear exhaust fan looks a bit clumsy. Either turn the fan around and run the cable under the motherboard tray or hide the cable between the case back and the fan. Smoldering the extension instead of plugging it looks better to. Sleeveing all open cables would help too.
Arranging the cables at the bottom between the motherboard tray and the HDD-case makes sense too. Try to keep them horizontal and flat on the bottom of the case. And clip the cable-binders so that the ends don’t hang around.
Finally I would rearrange the cables coming out of the power supply. Run them into the cable management hole so that they don’t cross or stand out. You can cross them behind the motherboard tray.
Otherwise the cable management is nicely done and helps the airflow and the appearance!

I would never recommend to use the CPU cutout for running wires. You’re begging for a motherboard IC solder point to penetrate the outer sheething of the wiring. I’ve often thought it would be nice if there were carbon fiber sheethes that could be applied to the wiring. It would make them considerably more durable. They could come with the case.

For the next new computer case I would like to see a nearly skeletal motherboard tray. There would only be enough metal for stability and proper screw hole position. Or perhaps CM could make a tray like this for existing cases. It would help with airflow and allow access to the bottom of the CPU area for boards other than the Intel board in the picture. AMD boards have a different mounting area on the motherboard.

I would also like to see something like a ceramic coating applied to the metal surfaces of the case. This would provide insulation from grounding and help spread the heat off the components in the case. Please check out this website for an example of what I’m talking about:

http://www.insuladd.com/

First, the obvious, sleeving always helps.

Next, don’t run your front panel connections through the CPU cutout. The last thing you want is for a solder leg to catch onto one of the thinner wires and nick it. Instead run the wires straight down along one of the edges of the hard drive bay (make sure it’s out of sight) and then across the bottom of the case behind the motherboard tray to the PSU cable hole. Run the wires closer to the SATA ports straight up and the others behind the PSU. This way you don’t see any clumps of wires like you do in the picture.

As for SATA connections, there isn’t much point in putting the hard drive in the top slot, if your SATA power isn’t long enough to reach the optical drive, move the optical drive or use two shorter cables. You can put the hard drive in the second or fourth slot for better airflow over the drive (third slot is behind the fan’s dead zone) or you can put it in the bottom for some adequate airflow and hide excess cable clutter under the drive. Run the SATA data and power cables through the roof of the case or the bottom, depending on where you put the drives. Straight across the visible gap can be unsightly.

For the motherboard connectors, raise and tighten the 24 pin so less is visible. Also, running PCI-E cables from below the graphics cards looks better. People will be looking into cases from a top down angle, you can hide the excess pins on 6+2pin connectors more easily and most of the cable won’t be seen. Just don’t block the fan intake.

Finally the fans, rotate the rear fan so that you can run the cable through the top of the case to the 8pin connector hole. If you’re picky about having fan hub branding labels right side up, then use an extension cable or plug into a motherboard header. You can wrap excess around the fan or hide it in the I/O shield area. As for the side fan, run the cable into the bottom left corner next to the PSU, then run it along the bottom edge to the front. If you installed a hard drive in the bottom, you can plug it into the fan controller there and keep it out of sight.

How about actually plugging in all the front panel headers and connections?

And in doing so, sleeve all the exposed wires to make things look a bit cleaner.

For the rear fan, rotate it so the wires coming off face the back of the case and then plug directly into a header there.

Other than that, Lets see a more realistic system that actually has more than a single hard drive in it. My Haf 932 has 5 and that was a fair bit of work to wire up.

Create contacts for the side panels. That way you don’t have wires running from the side panel fans/lighting all the way into the case, and coming unplugged every time you take off the side panel.

I could send pictures of how this works if need be.

I would love to post something but bucyrus5000 took everything I wanted to say!

Have a removeable cover to the right of the PSU to cover the cables and cut the tieraps down..The wire from the rear fan needs to be longer to hide…

Well, first of all, I would rotate the rear exhaust fan so that the wire could reach the back end of the motherboard tray a lot easier. Secondly, I would also re-wire the main 24-pin cable along with the 6-pin connectors along the motherboard tray so they doesn’t really stick out like they do. I would also have the cables behind the drive cage vertically instead of the position they are in currently. That’s about all I can say for it right now.

Try to give the 24pin and the PCIe power cords a 90 degree angle to the side of the MB, the always look better this way. The stack of cables participially hiding behind the Optical Drive bay should be hidden behind it as much as possible. The fan on the back you can rotate 180 degrees so the power connector is closer to the upper managing hole, so less yellow/red cabling is seen. The ones on the bottom going to the HDD cages can be hidden with installing a bottom intake fan on the slot. That’s what I can see form the pics, and also it will be nicer to include slightly bigger pictures and make the open with shadowbox or at least in another tab

I’ve been thinking about cable management recently, as I am at the point of managing my cables on my own build. Ideal cable management would be done with a PCB or two. This would have to be made by the case maker with some options for different mother board form factors and could be sold with the case or as an after market option. Computer enthusiasts would probably do it on their own, depending on their confidence and budget.

In lew of a PCB, or rather in conjunction with, the traditional means of managing cables still apply. The origins of cable management started in prehistoric times (probably the 1980s or 90s), when someone opened up their computer and saw a ton of wires catching dust and cat hair, rendering their CPU heatsink useless. The horror and rage he or she must have felt, knowing this is what they paid for from some company. In that moment 2 ideas must have been born; HIDE THE CABLES BEHIND THE MOTHERBOARD TRAY AND DRIVE CAGES, and SLEEVE THE CABLES SO THEY DON’T LOOK LIKE STRINGS OF UNICORN VOMIT. There are a few steps beyond that people do go to, such as custom modifying their case by drilling holes to better manage the cables, and even using bushings/grommets to protect the cables and make the modification look more professional.

How to hide cables
Planning is paramount, you need to know where every component you have goes and where every component you might want in the future will go. Installing the components unplugged will help. Place PSU in it’s spot and draw all the cables out the tray side. Start checking the lengths of the cables, match them to where and what component you want to attach them. Label the cables while you are at it. If the cable is long enough then attach it. If it is not long enough, measure how much longer it needs to be from the plug to the component connection and make a list of lengths per plug type. If you needed to make a list of cable extensions, then go buy your extenders, make your extenders, or splice in extensions if you have the confidence (and balls to void the PSU warranty). Now you need to secure the cable behind the motherboard tray and drive cages; use double sided tape, cable ties, and tie mounts. If you are not going to sleeve the cables and the cables all reach their components, you can close up and start the rig.

Sleeving the cables
There are many guides available for sleeving. Basically you need tools for removing the various connectors (these can be made or bought), and you need the sleeving and heat-shrink (many people prefer MDPC-X sleeving, but there is also TechFlex and industrial suppliers). While labeling the wire, you remove the wires from their plugs and slip the sleeving and heat-shrink you pre-cut over the wire; using a heatgun or hairdryer, you blow heat on the heat-shrink when in place to affix it. Sleeving can make a computer look great and has the benefit of not distracting you with multicolored nonsense when you are diagnosing problems.

To go beyond would require some doing. A PCB behind the motherboard try that just manages power and some PCBs to manage video card power and drive power would help airflow greatly.

Another festive and attractive (albeit time-consuming) thing I’ve seen done, was to hand twist all the smaller fan and connection wires before you bundle them.

You’ve done a good job so far, BUT that won’t stop me from making a few suggestions. Starting from the back, run the bundle down the forward side by the fan to the bottom of the case. This will hide the cable and increase room for any cables that get added later. This will also improve the ventilation at the top of the machine. I’d add a some 1X1 or 1/2X1/2 wire mesh (painted black of course) to the area below the motherboard cooler access cut-out. You can buy this stuff at a hardware store and it’s dirt cheap. This will give you a multitude of places of tie off locations. If you’re planning on adding a window, wrap all of your cables in black. This will make them much less obvious. Trim the ends of your zip ties – it looks better and it’ll keep you from getting poked.

The non-sleeved cables should all be sleeved, then you would have a nice clean look to everything!

Actually, that’s quite a nice job of cable management considering the limited amount of componants. But, the case/cooler fan wiring in the upper teft corner of the board could have been routed better. And the external case USB/SATA connections should be “sleeved” and the wiring bundle hidden behind the drive bays.

The only cable of note is the rear fan cable . That is a cable that I have personally alot of trouble with routing. I have gotten longer bits of wire to route this cable but the best I have seen was done by mnpctech. They routed the cable under the fan, routing behind the motherboard and plugging into one of the available fan plugs on the motherboard. I do have to give credit to the job of wiring the only addition would be black sleeving of the wires to further mask the appearance of the cabling.

What I would like to see is one main trunk running up the middle and cables running to their perspective locations perpendicular to the trunk.

grab a few feet of black wire loom and wrap the yellow and white bundle of cables before zip tieing them togther, i agree, the massive bundle of cables by the drive bays could be hung vertically to hide the mess

In addition to all the suggestions by Sleepee and Shurikenangel, I would sleeve the visible portion of cables and give it a theme. I love black and white, or black and red. That would make the visible portion of the case more appealing.

That mass of cables hanging at the top of the Sniper behind the CD drives but in view from the outside could be hung vertically instead; that would definitely make the inside a little cleaner than it already is.

Also, do you think that you could stuff that case a little more? Not many of us have that much space in our rigs, since we stuff them full. Adding more HDDs, a graphics card, sound card, more fans, and some bay devices (fan controller, multiple CD/DVD/Blu-Ray/(Floppy?)) would make the final cable management result more representative of what we actually work with ourselves. Perhaps also a larger cooler, like a Noctua DH14 or a Prolimatech Megahalems.

I for one would try to put the rear fan cable under the motherboard and up through. The white mess of wires at the top. I would strap them down the middle of the drive bays where you can not see them. Just use a bigger zip tie. The mess coming out from the back of the motherboard tray I would for one if possible use a black sleeve to cover up that nasty yellow and two bring them closer together and move them down to where they are level with the gpu instead of coming from the top down that leaves more exposed. Other then that you did a lot better then I could have pulled off.